French label Vetements has turned heads in the fashion industry ever since it rose to fame for selling a $330 replica of a DHL driver’s uniform t-shirt. Now, it’s endorsed internet-era copycat Vetememes, in a move that proves it understands a younger, more internet-savvy luxury consumer.

Beneath London’s Waterloo Station you’ll find a 3,000 square metre space housing an 850-capacity music venue, gallery, cinema and skatepark. This isn’t an old stomping ground passed down through generations of skaters, but the latest branded experience from US footwear giant Vans.

The resale market for streetwear has expanded from niche online communities to form a sizeable part of the $18 billion apparel resale industry. But who are the key players in this world? And what drives people to spend small fortunes to secure particular sneakers, t-shirts and hoodies?

Streetwear brand Supreme is a bundle of contradictions. It’s affordable yet exclusive; ultra-rare but surprisingly easy to buy; and is both a high fashion collaborator and foundation of subcultural style. How has this niche label kept its cool, even while attracting gaggles of teens to its stores?