18 May 2022DisruptorsWhy fast fashion is busting the sustainability myth
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People say that they want to buy better, but Shein’s $100 billion valuation suggests otherwise. Can a cost of living crisis give new hope for eco action in fashion?

Author
India DoyleIndia Doyle is the editorial director of Canvas8's Library. She oversees the editorial direction of research across content types to ensure Canvas8 members understand changes in consumer behaviour and culture and the opportunities around behavioural change. India has worked as a journalist for ten years, interviewing industry and cultural leaders including Christy Turlington, Olympic boxer Ramla Ali, and Rolls-Royce CEO Torsten Müller-Ötvös. She has contributed to SHOWStudio, Dazed and Confused, ekathimerini, Wonderland, and Dapper Dan magazine.

What do rocket ships and shiny leggings have in common? More than you’d think… The latest valuation of fast fashion conglomerate Shein has put the brand on a par with SpaceX – making them two of the highest valued companies in the world. Investor confidence in the brand suggests that fast fashion’s future is far from over – in fact, it’s looking interstellar. Shein’s success is built on smart use of third party suppliers and in-house designers harnesses the power of real time retail, and meets Gen Z’s voracious appetite for instant style updates at pace.

This comes at a moment where 83% of US Gen Zers say that they’re concerned about the environment, but only 39% are willing to pay more for it. With cost of living impacting lower income and more vulnerable audiences disproportionately, there’s an additional challenge around supporting people who are looking for a moment of escapism and indulgence at affordable entry points.  Acknowledging the challenge, Primark chief executive Paul Marchant explained “we believe that sustainability shouldn’t be priced at a premium that only a minority can afford.”

The UK brand is one fast fashion retailer promising to address their environmental impact, but has also been called out for greenwashing. So how do businesses reconcile the sustainability imperative with a bit of much needed retail therapy? With people struggling with day-to-day challenges, how can brands build sustainability into a thrift-focused mindset, and support greener decision making because of – not in spite of – a crisis?