Inside Culture

The business of being green

Another fashion month has come and gone, and greenwashing isn’t going out of style. The race to grab attention with outsized sustainability claims raises an interesting question – do we need more nuance in how we appraise greenwashing?

Cynicism around greenwashing has become a consumer lightning rod – 66% in the US agree with the statement that ‘companies say they care about the environment, but their actions fall short of their words’. But when Kourtney Kardashian Baker x Boohoo’s sustainable collection was called out, her response indicated an interesting agility around the topic. “I thought about the attention this collaboration would bring to people who may otherwise have no idea about the impacts of fast fashion on our planet,” she wrote on Instagram. “It’s definitely making some noise which is exactly what I was hoping for.” It’s a neat justification – collaborating with a fast fashion brand to ‘shine a light’ on the dangers of fast fashion. Meanwhile, Patagonia’s Yvon Chouinard’s transfer of 98% of his company’s controlling stock to a holding company that will invest all profits in fighting climate change has been hailed as an industry standard for environmental citizenship. However, it also emerged that the establishment of the holding company would save Chouinard and his family some $700 million in taxes.

Kardashian Baker’s half-baked protestations about wanting to make incremental changes may seem flimsy, but even if her motivations aren’t exactly pure, is it possible that the Boohoo deal and ensuring furor did elucidate complexities in tackling fast fashion that we all need to be aware of? And Chouinard’s tax-saving ploy may undermine his statements about his commendable intentions in ‘signing away’ his company, but does that wipe out the good that Patagonia’s profits will be able to do against climate change? Is it time for us to stop making sustainability a zero-sum game?

71%
of US consumers believe the term 'green' is used so often it has become meaninglessONEPOLL, 2021
image-d7ae43643df5677647a02116e383796d0542cf05-3873x5809-jpg