Tom Novak is a senior behavioral analyst at Canvas8. After completing his second master's degree in cultural sociology at LSE, he was drawn to cultural insight. Tom has conducted qualitative and ethnographic research from the plazas of Santiago to Coventry's suburbs. In his spare time, he can be seen rowing down the Thames or world-building around feminist science fiction.


The fashion world is – as ever – ridden with controversy and divisive topics. For example, an 

 by Chinese police for wearing a kimono, while Chinese sportswear brand 

 with runway outfits that resembled Japanese soldiers' uniforms during World War II. The Chinese government has 

 if their brand comms are not familiar with Chinese culture and history. Indeed, 

47% of the youngest adults in the country

 have boycotted foreign brands. Over in the US, a significant 

 in the fashion sector is causing high-profile employees and designers to leave the industry. At the same time, research by Vogue Business shows that 

 of minority ethnic people say their race or ethnicity has had a negative impact on their career in fashion, compared to just 6% of White respondents. To highlight the cultural complexity, Mowalola recently featured the '

 motif in her collection to underscore the pervasiveness of American influence.

Fueled by irreverence, playfulness, and a desire to break the rules, Gen Zers are increasingly 

, embracing chaotic and unconventional fashion. From the' 

, young people are leaning into excess, cringe, and 

 as a means of self-expression. However, this has garnered pushback from people who have called out some of these trends for 

. Indeed, a survey by UNiDAYS showed that 

 of Gen Zers in the UK believe that the mainstream fashion industry overlooks minorities. Yet brands like 

 took the criticism to their advantage by sharing negative feedback online and gaining the approval of the younger generation. "More and more brands are realising that if you can get that human [voice] right, you get a lot of popularity from it," 

, a content editor at UK's communications training company MediaFirst.

 London Fashion Week activations accused of 'mocking' working-class people to 

 fast-fashion collaboration with Pretty Little Thing sparking criticism, fashion brands often fuel consumer ire. "To Gen Z, this may look like a clear demonstration of an icon [like Campblell] choosing money over meaning, and Gen Z does not tend to stand for that type of inauthentic action," 

 faced even more backlash for an ad campaign that people say resembled imagery surfacing from the conflict in Gaza. On the other hand, 

 successfully merged fashion and advocacy in its F/W '24 collection by featuring Palestinian keffiyeh scarves and watermelon iconography and calling for a ceasefire and the release of all hostages. This echoes the sentiment revealed through Canvas8 research in 2023: 60% of Americans agree that brands are responsible for trying to make the world a better place.

of Britons agree when brands try to cater to diverse communities and get it wrong, it does more harm than good 

Gen Zers are embracing anti-aesthetic fashion and re-evaluating what it means to be individualistic. The movement disregards conventional fashion rules and offers sustainability and comfort, fostering inclusivity and self-expression. How are these attitudes reshaping the fashion industry?

Why Gen Zers are embracing anti-aestheticism in fashion

Cancel culture is real, but are Gen Zers more forgiving than we think? Fashion brands Sunnei and Reformation spent 2023 sharing negative feedback for the world to see, and social media consumers are loving it. So how can criticism be spun into a successful marketing tactic?

How fashion brands use criticism to their advantage 

A UK ad watchdog’s ban of a Calvin Klein ad starring FKA Twigs has received public backlash for perpetuating sexist double standards. It signals how social justice efforts must be nuanced and grounded in context, lest they become counterproductive to the causes they’re trying to support.

Calvin Klein ad ban highlights industry double standards

WNBA players are at the center of a cultural shift, merging sports and fashion like never before. From tunnel walks to boundary-breaking brand partnerships, these athletes are rewriting the rules of style and reshaping the perceptions of women in sports.

How WNBA players broke the boundary between fashion and sports

The latest long-form video from adidas relaunches its Predator Victory boot by contrasting football stars with ordinary, unknown, amateur players. Brands that prioritise inclusivity like this can bridge the gap between aspiration and accessibility - with powerful effects.

adidas puts normal people alongside world class footballers

California-based denim brand Citizens of Humanity and French manufacturer Pili have partnered to offer sustainable alternatives to synthetic indigo. This shift towards greener manufacturing will benefit both the planet and businesses, meeting peoples' growing demands for sustainable fashion.

Fermented indigo offers eco-solution to denim production

Coach, a leader in modern luxury accessories, has partnered with Gen Phoenix on a mission to reimagine leather sustainably, highlighting a shift toward eco-conscious fashion and aligning with rising demand for brands to prioritise more than just profit.

Coach showcases eco-vision with recycled leather bags

Blending global appeal with local culture, Levi’s has relaunched its NextGen store in Kyoto, featuring an in-store tailoring station. Through traditional design elements and exclusive items from artist collaborations, the denim apparel trailblazer aims to deeply connect with Japanese consumers.

How Levi’s brings a bespoke custom to Japan’s denim fans

Tyler, The Creator has evolved from provocateur to Grammy-winning artist and cultural icon by building a brand universe that thrives on immersive experiences and genuine connection. How does his multi-platform creativity continue to set him apart in a crowded entertainment landscape?

How Tyler, The Creator builds immersive, fan-centric worlds

Louis Vuitton has relaunched its Takashi Murakami collaboration, reimagining iconic 2000s handbags, scarves and luggage items in a bold, nostalgic capsule. With fans already mining the recent past for coveted items, Louis Vuitton combines nostalgia with modern allure to appeal to their interests.

Nostalgia sparks Louis Vuitton x Takashi Murakami relaunch

Cult beauty brand Glossier got worldwide coverage when it partnered with the USA women’s basketball team for the Paris 2024 Olympics. As women’s sports finally get the attention they deserve, beauty brands can explore opportunities in a previously male-dominated market.

Why Glossier levels the field for active beauty buffs

Fandoms are gathering offline, with IRL events creating connection and combating loneliness amid global uncertainty. From look-alike contests to immersive experiences, fans crave belonging, purpose, and escapism, and brands are tapping into shared passions to foster community and cultural engagement.

Why fandoms are gathering offline in search of connection

A fire at Kantamanto market in Ghana has led to damage at one of the world’s largest second-hand markets. As circular fashion continues to gain momentum, brands will need to show a deep commitment to proactively tackling textile waste by investing in initiatives that extend the life of garments.

Ghana’s market fire highlights textile waste problem

Walmart’s Wirkin, a dupe of Hermès’ iconic Birkin bag, has gone viral on TikTok. The meme has reignited the debate around luxury, authenticity, and accessible fashion, and underscoring how dupe culture is pushing brands to demonstrate value beyond their labels.




Wirkin vs. Birkin: Walmart’s dupe stirs TikTok debate

California and New York have become the first states to ban the sale of clothing that contains PFAS, with California’s law extending to non-apparel textiles. State lawmakers are increasingly banning ‘forever’ chemicals in response to environmental, health, and safety concerns.

PFAS textiles ban address forever-chemical concerns

US-based tech company Archive is transforming the future of resale by creating models for mega-brands ranging from New Balance to Oscar de la Renta. From trade-in programs to custom auction features, it’s tapping into American desires to make second-hand shopping feel premium.

How Archive connects eco-fashionistas to premium resale

Leaning heavily into traditional notions of masculinity, Trump’s cologne launch has sparked debate about the future of men’s grooming. With gender conservatism on the rise in the US, experts think representations of masculinity in this space will grow increasingly polarized.

Trump fragrance line reflects masculinity split

Founded in London’s King’s Cross in 2013, modern spectacle maker Cubitts is making waves across the Atlantic. Its latest theatrical store design meets the growing demand in experiential, highlighting how brands are blending storytelling and immersive experiences redefining retail engagement.

Cubitts targets experiential lovers with theatrical shop

Pantone’s Color of the Year for 2025 is Mocha Mousse, a muted brown in the red-orange family. The color is meant to evoke a sense of calm and connection to the Earth in a seemingly increasingly unstable world, linking to our desire for comfort and all-encompassing forms of wellbeing.

Pantone’s Color of the Year taps comfort and wellbeing

Dior has unveiled a new concept store in Bangkok, cementing Thailand’s status as a luxury hotspot. As Thai shoppers become more discerning in their luxury behaviours, local resonance should no longer be an accessory to global brands’ strategies but a core part of their DNA.

Dior’s Bangkok store writes new chapter in Thai luxury

In an era dominated by AI, social media filters, and tweakments, body horror aesthetics are challenging traditional beauty norms and exploring the tension between humanity and technology. By embracing imperfection, distortion, and the macabre, this movement redefines self-expression for a new generation.

Body horror aesthetics are so hot right now

Telfar is giving Canal Street counterfeit vendors authentic Telfar bags to sell at reduced prices to their customers. The disruptive move critiques elitism in high fashion while sparking debate on balancing accessibility, cultural relevance, and long-term brand value in a dupe-driven market.

Telfar gives fake bag dealers authentic products to sell

Fashion designer and Germany’s Next Top Model judge Kilian Kerner has been commissioned to create new uniforms for Berlin’s bus, subway, and tram drivers. As social cohesion becomes more precarious in the country, brands can tap into creative ways of reinvigorating local identity and pride.

BVG creates positive commutes with hyper-local uniforms

After an intense selection process, Chanel has appointed Matthieu Blazy as its new artistic director, marking its first major designer hire in 40 years. By choosing an insider favourite, the luxury fashion house is prioritising craftsmanship and innovation over celebrity appeal.

Chanel appointment prioritises craft over celebrity 

As well as contributing costumes to a Timotheé Chalamet-led biopic, Levi’s has announced a capsule collection featuring recreations of Bob Dylan’s wardrobe. Brands are finding new ways to enter the cultural conversation, leveraging their connection to iconic histories to reach new audiences.

Levi's taps rock and roll heritage in Bob Dylan capsule

Saint Laurent has channelled the resurgence of reading and cultural nostalgia in a holiday campaign inspired by Proust’s In Search of Lost Time. Featuring John Waters, Charlotte Gainsbourg, and Addison Rae, the spot taps into a renewed appetite for intellectual pursuits and cultural cachet.

YSL leverages cultural currency in holiday campaign

As more Australians with disposable income bolster the country’s travel industry, the luggage brand July has responded by expanding its affordable luxury offerings. Selling both style and practicality, it has met the needs of travellers seeking a bespoke touch as they head abroad.

Why July designs luxe luggage for cost-savvy travellers

Manchester City FC has launched a design competition for fans to create its future kit using AI. This initiative shows how brands can leverage AI technology and tap into desires for co-creation to give fans a greater stake in product innovation, thereby deepening their connection.

Manchester City invites fans to co-create kit with AI

Nike has partnered with renowned make-up artist Isamaya Ffrench to create two fresh colourways of the Air Max Dn. The collab draws inspiration from women athletes whose influence extends from the field of play to the fashion world, further blurring the boundaries between fashion, sport, and beauty.

Nike x Isamaya Ffrench collab bridges beauty and sport

Standing in line has moved from an inconvenience into a signifier, as people queue for hours at sample sales and pop-ups to socialise and feel part of something exclusive. This shift reflects how younger generations seek community and status through shared experiences rather than just purchases.

Queuing becomes status symbol at fashion sample sales

Hosted in a different city each year, Chanel's Métiers d'Art fashion show took place in China for its 2024/25 run. The tension among audience responses reflects growing scrutiny of global brands’ cultural nods, as audiences demand deeper, more authentic engagements in China's evolving luxury market.

Chanel fans call for greater nuance in Chinese designs

Skims is venturing into the winter market via a high-profile collaboration with The North Face, creating a capsule collection of elevated staples. The partnership joins a growing trend of fashion-sport tie-ups aimed at merging aesthetic appeal with technical performance.

Skims x The North Face collab blends style and function

As the fashion and automotive worlds collide, luxury streetwear brands Kith and Aimé Leon Dore are leading a transformation of classic BMW and Porsche models. This reflects a broader shift as cars become style statements, speaking to Gen Z's focus on cultural relevance over traditional car culture.

Gen Z drivers seek cultural relevance from car brands

Fashion stans started joining the queue for Chopova Lowena’s bi-annual sample sale in December 2024 as early as 3am. But the queue – as an endurance test and a temporary community for the fashion-focused – became a destination in its own right, showcasing a growing subculture around sample sales.

Chopova Lowena sample sale draws queues of Gen Z stans 

With its strong preference for tangible, authentic experiences, Gen Z is redefining the shopping landscape. How can brands successfully blend online convenience with engaging in-store interactions, while also staying true to the ethical and sustainable practices that Gen Zers value?

Why Gen Zers are going to the store to do their shopping

Louis Vuitton celebrated its first anniversary on Discord with an immersive game for its online community. As people are drawn to playfulness and fun from luxury brands, there’s an opportunity to deepen loyalty by appealing to niche digital communities for connection and belonging.

Louis Vuitton deepens connection through video games

Bottega Veneta has launched a capsule collection inspired by the work of beloved American author-illustrator Richard Scarry. Offering a keyring belt, cushion, and a woven intrecciato leather notebook, the brand's exploration of childhood wonder and awe feeds into the comforting appeal of nostalgia.

Bottega harnesses nostalgia for capsule collection

French start-up La Vitre’s screen helps link stakeholders within the luxury fashion industry with live translation, close-up product views, and high-resolution life-sized videos. Experts have highlighted that AI and VR will be key disruptive forces for the luxury sector in 2025.

Human-sized video screen transforms luxury fashion

Nostalgia, global permacrisis, and a rejection of perfection have led to a sea change and the revival of messier, more chaotic cultural aesthetics. How can brands engage with this ever-shifting trend landscape while maintaining the integrity of their identity and customer loyalty?

Why messy aesthetics signal rebellion against perfection

Deliveroo and Hurr have partnered to offer on-demand rental for luxury dresses, delivered in as little as 20 minutes within central London. This partnership speaks to a growing desire for convenient and sustainable fashion solutions, positioning fashion rental as a mainstream practice.

Deliveroo offers fashion fans an on-demand rental option

Sustainability is a key concern for people. But how are luxury fashion brands helping or harming this cause? Investing in true quality and supporting new sustainable raw materials is helping to boost sustainability across the industry, but greenwashing remains a persistent problem.

Why sustainable R&D is luxury's trust-building opportunity

An Italian programme is crafting partnerships that seek to promote ethical design and production processes. The collaboration's highlight the benefits of blending cultural heritage with innovative approaches, showcasing how both tradition and modernity can drive sustainable fashion.

Italian fashion initiative uplifts mountain community

In an era in which Gen Z and Y value authenticity, athletes transformed the 2024 Olympics into a canvas for personalisation – and beauty and fashion brands were on hand to collaborate. But how exactly did athletes become our new cultural vanguards?

How beauty is tapping into Gen Z's shifting sports attitudes

Miu Miu's SS25 show featured an artist-curated newspaper with links to cultural criticism texts and image-less ads. As luxury brands redefine their aesthetic codes and associations, they have the opportunity to surprise people with provocative and unexpected collaborations.

Miu Miu's SS25 show courts shock-led fashion audiences

Streamers are going viral on TikTok for playing Roblox’s Dress to Impress game, a competitive dress-up experience. As people look for a reprieve from their daily lives, and as economic and environmental concerns stunt fashion lovers IRL, Dress to Impress offers a fun and communal route to escapism.

Streamers playing Dress to Impress go viral 

Gen Z is redefining athleisure as more than just workout gear – it's a lifestyle statement woven into their values, fitness goals, and identity. Prioritising durability and brand connections over big names, they seek labels that foster community through shared experiences and authentic engagement.

Why are Gen Zers sporting luxury athleisure?

The Four Seasons has introduced luxury pyjamas as part of its Four Seasons at Home line, which honors the brand’s hospitality heritage and offers an entry point for those who can’t afford a hotel stay. The move aligns with a luxury trend towards accessible experiences amid economic constraints.

Four Seasons pyjamas offer an at-home luxury experience

As e-commerce casts doubt over the future of physical stores, Dover Street Market reaffirms the importance of experiential spaces in luxury retail. Integrating fashion, art, and emerging designers to revolutionise the customer experience, the famed store is shaping fashion commerce.

How Dover Street Market inspires fashion rediscovery

Drest's app connects users with real-world fashion brands, collections, and designers through interactive games. This move seeks to democratise fashion knowledge while offering brands an opportunity to build deeper loyalty and engagement by rewarding digital interactions with real-world gains.

Drest enhances app with gamified fan-led experience

Luxury brand Moschino is leaning into absurdism with the release of a bag modelled on a stalk of celery. Blending humour and hyper-realism, the move speaks to a growing appetite for self-aware humour within the industry, which may be particularly appealing to meme-savvy young shoppers.

Moschino lures luxe buyers with hyper-real celery clutch

As Americans embrace second-hand shopping for its affordability, creativity, and community value, resale has evolved from an eco-conscious option to a mainstream approach. Canvas8 spoke to eight Americans to uncover the motivations behind their switch to pre-loved fashion.

Why Americans are buying second-hand fashion

As British shoppers embrace second-hand fashion for affordability and individuality, resale has shifted from an ethical choice to a mainstream movement, aligning with both personal values and financial pressures. Canvas8 spoke to six Britons to unveil the reasons behind choosing pre-loved pieces.

Why Britons are buying second-hand fashion

Bumble and Puma India have partnered to create a bespoke running event for single Gen Zers and Yers, combining fitness and dating. The event comes at a time when young people around the world are looking for unique experiences that blend wellbeing, community, and even romance.

Puma and Bumble partner for singles-only running event

Trump's victory has sent the fashion industry reeling, with proposed tariffs threatening global supply chains and potential environmental rollbacks endangering sustainability goals. The response reflects a sector caught between commercial pressures and growing demands for social consciousness.

Fashion industry begins to react to Trump victory

Fashion newsletters are transforming how we engage with style, offering personalised, curated content that appeals to consumers fatigued by fast fashion. By fostering direct connections between readers and experts, newsletters emphasise thoughtful, high-quality choices over fleeting trends.

How newsletters are reshaping fashion’s future

In the midst of wars, political turmoil, and economic degradation, people are looking to fashion to offer escapism and plain old (and new) fun. They’re seeking playfulness that transcends perfection and are more open to weird and experimental takes.

So unserious

As fast fashion continues to have a dire effect on the environment, people want to see real measures to make the change, not empty promises. As resale goes mainstream, brands and shoppers alike consider new ways to deal with overconsumption in the sector.

Reuse, rewear

People increasingly want to stand out and be playful with their fashion choices, and this converges with the rise of tech-enabled personalisation. While fashion remains rooted in the sense of group identity and belonging, people want to feel like their purchases are made for them and leave some space for creativity.

Customisable styles

For today's climate-conscious shoppers, function is becoming top priority as people seek to protect themselves from intense weather. At the same time, following the rise of ‘gorpcore’ and ‘quiet luxury’, people no longer want to choose between style, function, and comfort, attracted to sleek yet practical solutions.

Functional fits

What do people want from functional clothes in the era of climate adaptability? How are personalisation technologies changing fashion? How are people getting ahead with practical sustainability measures? Why is fashion becoming so playful and unserious?

Fashion and Style Sector Snapshot: November 2024

“Diamonds are a girl’s best friend,” so sang Marilyn Monroe, but with questions over ethics and the environment, mined stones are falling out of favour. Lab-grown diamonds and recycled precious metals are attracting Gen Y and Gen Z. We explore what’s behind the explosion in ethical engagement rings.

How engagement rings are becoming more sustainable

Stone Island has launched a music platform featuring playlists and live shows, joining brands like KidSuper in expanding from fashion into cultural programming. The move is reflective of how luxury labels are becoming lifestyle curators rather than just clothing producers.

Stone Island music platform taps into subculture

Puig exceeded expectations with its Q3 earnings, bolstered by fragrance and skincare sales and demand in the EMEA region and Americas. As brands within luxury ponder whether to ‘go high’ or 'go low', Puig is opting for an enticing strategy – ‘go niche’ to stand out in a turbulent market.

Puig courts niche audiences within luxury

Designer Colm Dillane has launched a music label dubbed KidSuper Records, with the first music video featuring pieces from the brand's new collection. This move highlights the growing intersection of music and fashion, allowing brands to support local creatives and enhance personal expression.

KidSuper strengthens community ties with music label 

Sport and fashion are becoming more and more interwoven as sports stars front campaigns for high fashion brands and clothing labels make their mark between the lines. Now, the media is catching up as Carine Roitfield unveils a publication dedicated to the intersection of these two worlds.

Carine Roitfield courts fashion-conscious sports fans

The NFL has released a collection of blazers with NY-based brand Veronica Beard for its first official fashion collaboration. People are searching for relatable touchpoints to engage with the world of sports, and cross-sector collaborations can prove pivotal in resonating with casual viewers.

NFL collab speaks to evolving sports fandom expectations

Jacquemus has opened the doors to its first-ever US concept store with a location in New York. The move highlights people's increased appetite for immersive retail experiences that blend hyperlocal connections and unique storytelling to showcase the characters and feelings of various locales.

Jacquemus’ first-ever NY store elicits Parisian pride

An animated film based on research on the lived experiences of garment workers in Leicester has highlighted the human cost behind fast fashion labels. The Stories We Wear aims to raise awareness of local garment exploitation and spotlight the individual role shoppers play in the process. 

Film reveals local human cost of fashion industry

Fashion and Style

People are hyper-aware of controversies in fashion, and some brands are leaning in

The fashion industry is no stranger to controversy. The recent John Galliano documentary shows that the sector is trying to reconcile with the darker side of its heroes. But the scrutiny is not stopping some brands from leaning into the spotlight – all press is good press, after all. There’s a thin line between winning consumer trust and harnessing shock value in this attention economy.