Challenging old-fashioned notions of femininity

The evolution of femininity beyond the confines of the male gaze has meant that fashion is no longer relied upon or expected to be an expression of gender and can exist solely as a stylistic choice. This can be seen in Gen Z’s 

 enthusiasts, who've reappropriated the iconic doll’s aesthetic as a way of shaking off negative connotations around 

 (i.e. superficiality) and critiquing gender as a surface-level construct. Similarly, the resurgence of 

-inspired style speaks to a more nuanced understanding of gender as Zers embrace ‘girliness’ as a form of female empowerment.

Ugliness and irony as cornerstones of Gen Z fashion

While Y2K-era fashion is largely remembered for various faux pas, Gen Zers are willingly returning to these styles and redefining acceptability on their terms. This has resulted in 

, for example, thriving on the resale market as younger cohorts prioritise comfort and reliability in an extension of the 

 revival emphasises Gen Z and Y’s desire to opt out of the fashion industry’s pressurised, cookie-cutter standards in favour of being embraced by an outsider community. However, the adoption of ugly looks can be more than just an act of defiance against the fashion industry. In China, 

 are championing so-called ‘lowbrow aesthetics’ as a nod to their rural heritage and a rejection of online perfectionism.

Amid the uncertainty of post-pandemic life, nostalgic fashion offers Gen Yers and Zers an emotional connection to a simpler time. The ‘

’ aesthetic wasn’t exactly desirable in the early 2000s, but its re-emergence on TikTok speaks to Gen Y’s eagerness to return to a time when they felt safer. And although Gen Zers didn’t experience the Y2K era first-hand, they’re similarly drawn to looks and brands that were aspirational at the time, fuelling the popularity of 

 tracksuits – just a few of the brands benefiting from this generation’s 

of Americans pay attention to comfort when considering a clothing or footwear purchase

Barbiecore couldn’t be further from the doll once considered a symbol of sexism. Transparently fake, fun, and loud, this subculture is detached from the male gaze and popular among cisgender women and the LGBTQ+ community. But what’s caused it to break into the public consciousness? And why now?

How Barbiecore is eschewing the male gaze

Amid a global uptick in digital-first subcultures that channel Y2K aesthetics, Chinese youth are embracing the ‘bad’ taste associated with older, rural, and working-class people in the country. Beyond simply serving as a form of self-expression, what’s behind this tacky nostalgia trip?

Why are Chinese youth embracing tastelessness?

The 'Frazzled English Woman' aesthetic is a Y2K-inspired fashion trend making waves on TikTok. Evoking the image of women from early-2000s British romcoms, the look is making a comeback as people crave comfort, marrying the rejection of perfectionism with the joy of nostalgia.

Frazzled English Woman taps desire for nostalgic comfort

By defiantly rejecting social expectations and aesthetic labels, American Gen Z women are rewriting the fashion rulebook, torn between upholding and subverting feminine styles. Canvas8 spoke to six of them about their sartorial choices, gender politics, and the changing nature of femininity.

The future of American femininity in a post-Barbie world

After 2023’s year of fervent girlcore, it's clear that femininity is crucial to how Gen Zers express themselves. Canvas8 spoke to eight Gen Z women from across the UK to discover how their perceptions of femininity and gender politics shape their fashion and style choices.

The future of British femininity in a post-Barbie world

How are micro-trends reshaping our understanding of personal style? In what ways are fashion brands engaging with technology acceleration? Why are fashion labels engaging with and subverting cancel culture? What is the future of femininity in a post-Barbie world?

Fashion and Style Sector Snapshot: April 2024

The NBA’s Brooklyn Nets have teased a high-fashion collaboration between its luxury private label bǝrō and Colm Dillane of KidSuper. As the worlds of sport and fashion become increasingly intertwined, there's an opportunity for brands to leverage co-branding to reach new audiences.

Brooklyn Nets fashion collaboration targets new fans

In an ageing country with fewer kids per capita than ever, South Korean adults are willing to spend money on the kids that do exist in their lives, driving a booming childrenswear industry. What’s shaping Gen Alpha’s fashion choices in their formative years, and what should brands watch out for?

Why are so many South Korean Gen Alphas wearing luxury clothes?

Fashion brands have started doing well in including bigger bodies on the runway, but this has gone downhill in recent years. Seeing a regrowing gap in size inclusion, Good Counsel provides both style and function for the growing demographic of men who want to express themselves through clothing.

How Good Counsel alters style options for plus-sized men

Loewe has released a humourous brand film that finally explains how to pronounce its name, leaning into the confusion people face in their attempts. With people seeking experiences that make them smile and laugh, luxury brands can play with humour as a new path to status signalling and elitism.

Loewe ad embraces the struggle of saying its name

India’s discerning high net worth individuals (HNWIs) are increasingly reviving traditions and connecting past and present in their fashion. Many now place high value on timelessness, especially among well-heeled urban globetrotters. What can others learn from this shift back to roots?

Why India's HNWIs are bringing back traditional designs

Posse has become the ‘it girl’ label of choice by winning the hearts of celebrities and fashion enthusiasts globally for its sustainable ‘leisurewear.’ As high-quality, timeless products take precedence over fast-fashion fleeting styles, how did the brand build such a formidable reputation?

Why Posse understates Paris chic for Aussie fashionistas

Africa's fashion landscape is undergoing a remarkable transformation, with sustainability emerging as one of the pivotal drivers of change. Why and how are African designers incorporating sustainable practices into their designs? And what can other brands learn from their success?

African fashion is leading the sustainability charge

Barbour, the iconic British brand, leverages its 130-year heritage to connect with modern consumers across generations. But in an increasingly saturated market, how have new collaborations and a sustainability focus propelled the brand to new heights with trendsetting Gen Zers and beyond?

How Barbour remains a beacon of British multi-age luxury

Period product brand Nana is using Dubai Fashion Week to tackle period taboos in the Middle East. Featuring transparent handbags, or ‘Taboo Totes’, with Nana products visible inside, the campaign draws attention to and aims to disrupt the harmful effects of persistent menstrual taboos.

Nana tackles period stigma with transparent bags

In a global campaign, Eastpak shines the spotlight on the creativity and resilience of live action role-play (LARP) communities. No longer viewed as a siloed form of entertainment, there's an opportunity for brands to tap into the power of niche subcultures and garner authenticity.

Eastpak campaign taps into creativity of LARP culture

Foundations, exhibitions, sponsorships, and mentoring programmes – luxury brands are pursuing a range of arts and cultural branding strategies to legitimise their symbolic power. Why is the industry leveraging cultural credibility in their marketing, and how are consumers perceiving this shift?

Why luxury brands are aspiring to be cultural tastemakers

REI Co-op's spring collection isn't divided by gender. The new Active Pursuits range is genderless, with more options available for color, height, and width across the offerings – designed to give everyone their own choice of what feels comfortable, no matter their body shape.

REI blends functionality with genderless fashion

Gentle Monster is more than a sunglass store with colossal robots. Its rich, immersive brand narrative is a survival tool for the future of luxury retail. Through experiential stores and experimental accessories, it highlights the power of quality experiences that stand out to the fashion-forward.

Why Gentle Monster turns Korean shades into mod spectacles

SSENSE has grown into one of the biggest names in fashion retail and a favoured destination for Gen Y and Z designer label enthusiasts. As young consumers enter the world of luxury shopping, how does the brand’s cultural appeal align with their shopping needs and desires?

How SSENSE improves young people’s access to luxe fashion

Mowalola's 'Dark Web' collection critiques American digital dominance and cultural imperialism and explores global cultural exchanges. It reflects broader trends toward ethical fashion and cultural authenticity, highlighting the fashion industry's role in shaping global identity.

Mowalola critiques appropriation in Dark Web collection

Veja's Paris store focuses on sustainable fashion, offering repairs and products to increase longevity. It embodies ethical consumption trends, reflecting values important to today's consumers, who prioritise environmental and social impacts and durability in their purchasing decisions.

Veja brings sneaker repairs to the shop floor

Jil Sander, the sleek, sophisticated brand with a storied history, is often lauded for its minimalism, but its creative efforts demonstrate how luxury can be so much more than quiet. In doing so, it is attracting younger consumers who are looking to add individualism into the mix.

How Jil Sander’s anti-nostalgia approach taps Gen Zers

According to a report from The Business of Fashion, the sneaker resale market is in steep decline. This reflects a shift from exclusivity to accessibility, and consumer preference for value and innovation – signalling broader trends in fashion towards authenticity and sustainability.

Sneaker hype culture declines amid taste change

Megan Thee Stallion has collaborated with Nike to release Hot Girl Systems, a fitness apparel line catering to all bodies. Speaking to the rapper's brand of inclusivity and wellbeing first, the release responds to growing demand for body representation and softer approaches to wellbeing.




Megan Thee Stallion x Nike launch inclusive apparel line

The market for engagement rings for men is booming as people look to more expansive models of masculinity. This trend speaks to a wider challenge to the traditionally gendered roles assigned within heterosexual partnerships, as well as eroding expectations of rigidly masculine style choices.

The sales of men-focused engagement rings are booming

Festival season is a buyer’s market for fashion-forward Indian consumers, with much of the spending on textiles, garments, and jewellry. International brands are taking notice of the growing appetite of India’s affluent classes for luxury and responding with collections to satisfy their tastes.

For affluent Indians, festival season is an excuse to spend more on luxury

The Instagram page Real Housewives of Clapton serves as both a satirical commentary and a cultural barometer of the UK’s creative class. In a time where social cohesion is strained, and markers of adulthood are shifting, how can hyper-localised meme pages help build a sense of community?

How RHOC captures East London’s creative class

Clothing brand PH5 is turning heads with its experimental knitwear designs and commitment to ethical fashion. In a world increasingly seeking luxury and sustainability in equal measure, that might be just the ticket to set it apart and elevate China’s worldwide fashion profile.

How PH5 stitches lasting luxury into ‘Made in China’ labels

Fashion brand Pipatchara has a dream – to be a fashion brand that empowers local artisans and entices fashionistas into sustainability. As Thai consumers seek out local brands to support, Pipatchara steps up, offering elegance and modernity, making it one of Thailand’s most promising brands.

Why Pipatchara makes Thai eco-weaving a fashion must-have

As more and more people seek products that align with their values, France has introduced various schemes to promote sustainability within fashion. Will these initiatives pave the way for a re-evaluation of shopping habits? How might they change French consumers’ relationships with fashion?

The future of sustainable fashion in France

Falabella has launched a summer campaign with the slogan 'My body doesn't need your opinion', urging women to reject unsolicited body comments. The initiative aims to foster self-respect, discouraging remarks about weight and appearance to promote positive body image and confidence.

Falabella challenges unsolicited summer body comments

Lucy & Yak has responded to the ban on FKA twigs' Calvin Klein campaign with its 'Baring All' clothing range – which celebrates body diversity, specifically breasts. People want to shop with brands that align with and understand their values and ethics and actively support and amplify them.

Lucy & Yak encourages Britons to bare their breasts

Between girl math, girl dinner, Barbie, and all-pink fashion and beauty trends, 2023 was arguably the ‘year of the girl’. Yet while the entertainment industry and social platforms have gone gaga over all things girly, what does 2024 hold in store for media portrayals of femininity and womanhood?

What comes after the year of the girl?

The fashion label’s Men's Paris Fashion Week collection was designed to provide commentary on the ongoing conflict in Palestine. As people expect brands to speak against systemic injustices, this collection highlights how brands can intertwine their expertise with equity to make a bold statement.

GmbH weaves call for ceasefire into new collection

Rankin has joined forces with McCann Health and ASTi to shed light on the use of acids and chemicals in the fashion industry and the link between this use and acid attacks. Laying bare the devastating effects that acid can have, this campaign utilises transparency as a powerful tool for good.

Campaign sheds light on fashion's link to acid attacks

Italian luxury brand Dolce & Gabbana spotlights the value of artisanry 'fatto a mano' in a unique exhibition in Milan that spotlights the life of its creators. As prices continue to rise, luxury brands that lead with exceptional craftsmanship and heritage could help convince cautious consumers.

Dolce & Gabbana spotlights uniqueness of its artisans

Farm Rio has grown from its market stall roots in Rio de Janeiro into one of fashion’s most promising up-and-coming brands. As shoppers look for sustainable, serotonin-boosting brands that showcase their cultural roots, Farm Rio injects fun and personality into their wardrobes.

How Farm Rio brings dopamine dressing to fashionistas

A human rights-focused report has warned that luxury fashion is falling behind in the fight against forced labour. As consumers prioritize transparency, luxury brands must provide supply chain transparency and openly address allegations to appeal to increasingly ethically conscious customers.

Luxury fashion can't commit to ethical supply chains

'Grandpa Core' marks yet another sartorial social media trend. However, the internet's new penchant for knitwear and tweed has highlighted the hypocrisy of an industry relying on social media's rapid trend cycle to sell a style originally curated over a lifetime of careful purchases.

'Grandpa Core' highlights fast fashion hypocrisy

The Crocs Quick Trail repurposes Crocs' Classic Clog for the great outdoors. This signals the return of multi-purpose apparel, a key shift for brands to pay attention to this year as people's budgets remain tight and consumers look for functional and aesthetic value from their investments.

Crocs hiking clog resonates with critical spenders

Pigalle – a Parisian streetwear brand, is redesigning France's Olympic uniforms for the 2024 Games. Pigalle's partnership with the French National Olympic Committee marks a luxury touch in the Olympics, and with LVMH also partnering, this trend reflects a shift from exclusivity to mainstream sports.

Luxury brands strengthen Olympic links in 2024

Cancel culture is real, but are Gen Zers more forgiving than we think? Fashion brands Sunnei and Reformation spent 2023 sharing negative feedback for the world to see, and social media consumers are loving it. So how can criticism be spun into a successful marketing tactic?

How fashion brands use criticism to their advantage 

Gen Zers are digitally tracking their outfits to monitor how often they wear each piece and move towards slower models of fashion consumption. As budgets get tighter and sustainability awareness increases, young people are looking to become more intentional with their money choices.

Gen Zers turn to wardrobe tracking to manage consumption

Attacks on cargo ships in the Red Sea are disrupting supply chains, and Next CEO Simon Wolfson has warned that it could soon affect growth figures for the clothing retailer. Brands can appease concerns about stock shortage by developing communications strategies that keep consumers in the loop.

Next warns against impacts of supply chain disruption

In an era where micro-trends reign supreme and everyone’s a critic, Data, But Make it Fashion is cutting through the noise to provide fashionistas with technology-based information on what’s actually trending and worth investing in. How is the platform shaping the future of fashion?

How Data, But Make it Fashion reshapes shopping trends

Filson’s Unfailing resale program sees the brand embrace responsible consumption. Circular practices are increasingly common among fashion’s heavyweights, but Filson shows how brands with a legacy focus on durability have a legitimate leg up when entering the crowded world of resale channels.

Filson leverages longevity to court the eco-conscious

Japanese attitudes toward thrifting are changing as people revitalise fashion aesthetics and embrace secondhand clothes. Rising prices have made secondhand shopping more appealing, reflecting a shift in consumer sentiment beyond just style considerations and sustainable values.

Secondhand garments get a second life in Japan

With its authentic relatability and era-specific costumes, Netflix’s The Archies pays homage to the iconic clothing of the 60s, reinforcing the retro trend in Indian fashion. An adaptation of the Archie comics, the film localises its independent storylines and aesthetics for modern audiences.

Why The Archies is bringing vintage to Indian Gen Zers

The convergence of how Gen Zers dress themselves and their homes is being recognized by young designers as an opportunity to tap into revenue from a new market. When did rugs, candles, and mirrors become big business for new-age fashion brands and how did micro-trends on TikTok facilitate this?

Why are US fashion brands expanding into homeware? 

NB44 is expanding its invite-only, $12,000-per-year clothing subscription service to a broader audience. Luxury consumers are increasingly looking for hyper-personalized services and greater exclusivity, signaling their identity and status by consuming carefully curated offerings.

NB44 expands personalised luxury clothing subscriptions

Champion has unveiled its Eco Future Reverse Weave collection, which combats microplastic impact. This aligns with their 'Champion What Moves You' initiative that has seen the brand advocate for sustainable innovation, appealing to value-driven consumers seeking environmentally friendly products.

Champion tackles microplastics with althleisure fabric

Fendi has unveiled a collaboration with Hiroshi Fujiwara’s streetwear label Fragment and Pokémon to celebrate the upcoming Year of the Dragon. These limited-edition, NFT-accompanied collabs offer consumers ever-expanding ways to signal status and exclusivity while remaining culturally relevant.




Fendi drops Pokémon collab for the Year of the Dragon

The story of Indian Gen Y and Gen Z changing the face of weddings is also a story of self-awareness, finding a voice, and clarity of thought. All stakeholders of India’s multibillion-dollar wedding industry have realised that they can’t take young brides for granted and must cater to their desires.

How are Gen Z and Y Indian brides reshaping the wedding industry?

Diet Sabya is an Instagram account that has gained prominence in the Indian fashion industry. Its rise to relevance reflects a broader cultural shift among younger Indians, tapping into the zeitgeist that seeks transparency, calls out imitations, and appreciates genuine creativity.

How Diet Sabya builds a Gen Z fashion democracy in India

The global fashion industry has reached its peak in terms of a dire lack of diversity and inclusion. Cultural rebellion is emerging as people and brands fight against the grain. How can brands stay ahead of the diversity, equity, and inclusion curve in this fast-paced, ever-changing market?

How can brands help solve fashion’s diversity problem?

Indian streetwear label Huemn has tapped seventh-generation perfumer Ola Originals to launch its debut fragrance, Pheromones. It’s speaking to people’s shifting attitudes toward sexual expression in a largely conservative culture by marrying sex positivity with an homage to Indian perfumery.

Huemn reinterprets Indian heritage through sexual liberation

Global travel drives fashion shopping trends, with 80% of tourists shopping while travelling – something set to continue in 2024. Brands like Chanel and Louis Vuitton are opening pop-ups in novel destinations, reflecting a post-pandemic desire for unique, personalised travel and luxury experiences.

Luxury shopping increasingly determines travel choices

WWF Italy has teamed up with Rifò to reinvent classic Christmas wear for the greater good – protecting endangered animals worldwide. It challenges the ugly truth about ugly Christmas sweaters – that they are constructed inexpensively and seldom worn beyond a couple of occasions.

WWF Italy protects wildlife with ugly Christmas sweaters

Pivot Energy and Tapestry have teamed up to develop and support community renewable energy in Illinois. Through community-based, sustained commitment, the fashion industry is building trust among consumers at a time when ESG efforts are under scrutiny by skeptical consumers.

Tapestry teams up with Pivot Energy for ESG efforts

Chanel hosted its Métiers d'Art fashion show in Manchester's Northern Quarter, celebrating the city's rich arts and cultural history. The event signifies a shift towards hyper-local activations, which allow brands to connect with consumers and instil a sense of local pride.

Chanel fuses global and local in Manchester fashion show

Under Armour has partnered with precision testing solutions supplier James Heal to consider the threat of microfibers and microplastics in the textile industry. By addressing the problem directly, the brand is demonstrating tangible action to support its sustainability claims.

Under Armour affirms eco-credentials with microfibre test

Uno has developed a collection of bras that empower post-surgery bodies. Designed for single mastectomy support, the products eliminate the need for prosthetics, offering comfort for those who may have opted out of surgical reconstruction and celebrating the uniqueness of post-surgery bodies.

Uno offers a one-cup bra for post-surgery bodies

Uniqlo seamlessly intertwines trends and sustainable shopping behaviours, forging a unique path towards responsible yet stylish consumerism. By curating collections that capture the essence of contemporary shopper needs, Uniqlo ensures that its offerings remain both relevant and cutting-edge.

How Uniqlo builds on trends for conscious shoppers

Zara is facing backlash for an ad campaign that had resemblances to scenes coming out of the ongoing humanitarian crisis in Gaza. People are increasingly losing patience for brands that fail to exhibit cultural awareness in their offerings and will not hesitate to call them out.

Zara faces intense backlash for insensitive campaign

Plush toy brand Squishmallows has teamed up with H&M Kids for an apparel and accessories collection inspired by the toys. Brands are increasingly expanding across sectors to create a more immersive and integrated experience for fans looking to express their fandom and identity.

Squishmallows x H&M brings squish culture to kids clothes

Popular Japanese virtual influencer Imma has released a capsule collection through her fashion label Astral Body. Despite virtual influencers losing steam in the West, there’s a healthy appetite for such KOLs in Asia, where they’re steadily eclipsing human celebrities and brand ambassadors.

Virtual influencer Imma makes waves with fashion drop

Gen Zers are leaning into a blend of casual and comfortable when dressing for work – and it’s much more than a post-lockdown blip. The way they express themselves through their professional attire says a lot about their approach to the job – what can employers and other generations learn from this?

How Gen Z is redefining the office dress code

Fashion and Style

People are remixing nostalgia and rejecting traditions in their fashion choices

From bimbocore and the indie sleaze revival to the resurgence of brands such as Juicy Couture and Coach, people (Gens Y and Z, in particular) are looking to the past for fashion inspiration. But rather than simply embracing these styles as they existed previously, they’re reclaiming ‘tacky’ looks and giving them provocative new narratives.