Despite couture often being considered as exclusive and inaccessible for the average shopper – it has been estimated that there are no more than 4,000 Haute Couture clients in the world – Viktor & Rolf has bridged the gap between high street and luxury audiences. The fashion house has collaborated with brands such as H&M, created collections with memefied slogans and Instagrammable looks, and shown as part of public fashion exhibitions. Despite these democratic moves, the brand remains rooted in couture, choosing not to offer ready to wear ranges – but only a few small capsule collections. This is a move which likely comes in line with couture’s growing Gen Y clientele. Fashion mogul Ralph Toledano says, "to keep a hand on the future, brands are learning to ‘talk Millennial’, but they do it without forgetting their ‘mother tongue’.”

Reflecting on the brand’s unconventional couture collections – heavy with Tulle fabrics, slogans, and bright colours – India considered how Viktor & Rolf has been able to target specific audiences with their couture collections. “They’re bridging the gap between those who can buy couture and those who want to experience it secondhand and want to be part of that conversation, because this for me felt like a very Gen Z collection. It’s like they created a collection targeted to a specific audience, who are becoming luxury buyers, so there’s something in how couture is having to evolve to suit the needs of the generation coming through, who are beginning to have wealth. This is the evolution of what couture is as well because it’s no longer just luxury and craft approach that it was before,” she says.

Further ideas considered how the designs featured in the A/W19 show align well with Gen Yers penchant for astrology and horoscopes. Created with a narrative of ‘dark fairytales’ and visual motifs including moons, stars, and cosmic patterns, even the collection’s title ‘Spiritual Glamour’ nods towards this generation’s preference for alternative, non-religious beliefs. “Astrology and horoscopes are very timely for the millennial generation and what they’re interested in. They’ve kept social media references in a way that feels very current and something you could see popping up in a high street collaboration. There’s an easy narrative between this and a high street version, which is not always the case with couture.”

With the fashion industry rooted in newness and change, couture remains to exist as a more timeless sector of the industry, offering traditional craft and artisan designs. But Viktor & Rolf are innovating to merge the nuances of couture wear with the cultural anecdotes common to the digital-sphere. Brands are increasingly reflecting on their product offerings in relation to their digital communications, with the fashion industry leaning towards a more virtual offering. Considering the behaviours of Gen Z shoppers, and their continuous desire to reinvent their online identity, brands such as Carlings are tapping into this by offering digitally rendered fashion garments. For further analysis on the future of luxury, take a look at the sector in our 2019 Expert Outlook Report.

Abi Buller is the editorial assistant at Canvas8, which specializes in behavioral insights and consumer research. She holds a degree in Creative Direction for Fashion from the University of the Arts London. Outside of work, you'll find her wandering around art galleries, practising yoga and seeking out new pastel-coloured garments to add to her collection.